A few pictures from Thailand

NUI

Nui is the coolest 13 year-old I know. He was the boy that I lived with. One night we were having family dinner. Our kitchen table was outside. Most of the homes in the village are small wooden shacks on stilts. There is not much privacy. A couple that lived across the street had started arguing. I think the whole neighborhood could hear their yelling. After a few awkward silent moments, Nui looks up with a smile on his face and says "talk show!". Nui only knows a few words in English. He made me laugh when of all things he recognized a Maury Povich moment.

One day when I was sick, I was upstairs sleeping. I heard the floor boards creek and it woke me up. It was Nui. He was peeking through my mosquito net and motioned to ask me if I was hungry. I was trying to explain to him that I wasn't, but we weren't understanding each other. Finally I said yes, to settle the confusion. I thought maybe Mae had sent him upstairs to ask if I wanted lunch.

When I finally made it downstairs I realized it was just the 2 of us. Nui made me lunch. Nobody put him up to it. He mixed up some egg to make me an omelet. Eggs are the last thing someone who is nauseous wants to eat. But my heart was so touched by sweet little Nui that I couldn't refuse.

As he poured the egg into the wok, I looked in wonder as to what he had added with the egg. The egg was speckled. I peeked my head in a little closer to see that my egg was being fried with an army of Ants. Nui didn't wash the wok before he cooked. Trying to fight ants in rural Thailand is a constant losing battle. Ants are just a part of home life that you have to get used to. Normally when whoever is cooking, the wok always gets washed first. This was the first and last time that I ever saw Nui cook in the month that I lived with the family.

Not only was I nauseous and trying to get the courage up to eat the egg in the first place. I was to now try and pick around my ant flavored omelet. It was so sweet of Nui to think of me. He was just looking after me. His intentions were so innocent that I didn't even care. Bless his little heart. I did the best I could in trying to eat a few bites and when Nui went back inside I fed the rest to Bok (our dog).

MAE

It's pronounced Meeaahhhh and it means mother. She was the mother I lived with. She raises silkworms for the silk thread and sews her own clothing out of it. The day I got to Prang Ku she had just started with the process and she was feeding the worms. They were the size of a dinner plate. Sometimes I would come outside and she would be up in the trees picking leaves to feed her worms. Pi Ju, her daughter would tell me she was feeding her "pets". They would get fed every 2-3 days. By the time I had left that little dinner plate had grown into 5 large bamboo platters full of worms. She then bundled some twigs together so that the worms could start spinning the silk. It only takes about 2 days. This was such a cool process to watch.

When I got sick Mae looked after me. She would often come in at night and feel my forehead and arms to check the fever. She would shake her head in wonder as to why my temperature wouldn't go down. One day she made me a bed downstairs on the tile underneath the fan because it stays cool during the day. She then got a washcloth and soaked it in warm water and would wipe my brow and arms with it. She would also grill bananas over an open fire because she thought it would be good for my stomach. Those are only a few examples of how she took care of me.

She knew 2 words in English. Goodnight and goodbye. I didn't know much more Thai than that either. While verbal communication was difficult, living with her showed me that we don't need to know each others language to be able to show each other we care. She was the person I could talk to the least, but I felt I became the closest to her. I miss this woman.

SINGLE FILE LINE

I have a 3 hour layover in Taipei, Taiwan. There is free Internet service at the airport which I thought was pretty sweet. Something I read in Time Magazine made me laugh out loud on the flight over here. Perhaps it was only funny because I was on a China Airlines flight and the subject matter had recently occurred. Anyway, the article was about waiting in lines. It had a little snippet about how in China on the 11th day of every month the Chinese are being taught how to queue in preparation for the upcoming 2008 Olympics. I'm still laughing at the thought of grown men and women being taught how to wait their turn. Apparently the Chinese are notorious for cutting in line. I had no idea this was commonly known. I thought they just really needed to use the bathroom.

JOHN WAYNE

When I first got to Thailand I read that 60% of Thailand's wealth is in Bangkok but only 10% of it's population resides here. After spending the last month in rural Thailand, it puts that statistic into perspective. Something as simple as children wearing diapers causes me to do a double take. Diapers are the last thing most people here can afford. I myself feel a little remorse. The 3 nights in my hotel are costing me more than I have spent in the entire past month. And that's including 2 separate hospital bills. After coming from my humble corner of Thailand it's difficult to not feel over indulgent.

Sometimes I wonder how to describe American culture. I know it's there, but what exactly is it? I particularly wonder when immersed in another culture completely different from my own. Thai culture is so prevalent.

Yesterday I went to the Chatuchak weekend market here in Bangkok. It's a gigantic flea market. It's easy to get lost in it. I did get lost. You can buy anything and everything you would never want or need there. It was here in the nooks and crannies that I got a taste of familiarity.

The first who caught my eye was a blind Thai man. His hero is Mr. T and was dressed just like Mr. T would dress. He had a Mohawk and a plethora of jewelry on. He sells belt buckles at the market. Next were the 3 Thai men I saw selling country western attire. One was playing the Banjo, and 1 was slapping some spoons on his thigh. All 3 were dressed in Wranglers, Cowboy boots, Cowboy hats, and button down plaid shirts. I started singing a John Cougar Mellencamp song in my head. I don't know the name or any of the words. But the chorus says 'Oh, but ain't that America, for you and me'. Right then and there I saw my culture displayed by another. It was awesome.

ABRUPT GOODBYE

The last 2 blogs I posted were written about 2 weeks ago. I didn't want to post them at the time for some reason. Maybe posting them 2 weeks later defeats the purpose of blogging. Aren't blogs supposed to be in the moment? I don't know and I don't really care. In the aftermath of things I want to remember what daily life in my village was like.

Tearfully I'm writing from Bangkok. A week and a half ago I became sick with Dengue Fever. It is the reason I had to leave my village 1 month before I had planned. Dengue Fever is a disease caused by a mosquito. Most of the time it is not fatal. But it is hell on earth.

This is how Dengue Fever effected me. Two separate trips to the hospital in Surin in 3 days. Fever for 6 consecutive days. It has been nicknamed "break-bone fever". This name is self explanatory. It gives you body aches so bad - it feels like your bones are breaking. Abdominal pain, Diarrhea, and Dehydration. Loss of appetite. The loss of appetite also comes from the fact that I had nausea almost 100% of the time for 7 days. It is a viral infection so it cannot be treated. I was given 6 different medications to help the symptoms. My medication needed to be taken with food 3 times a day so I would choke down a few bites of white rice. Splitting headaches. It also causes pain behind the eyes. Lastly, a rash all over my legs, arms and chest.

It typically lasts for 6-7 days. I became sick 1 week ago Thursday. The fever and body aches have left. The nausea still comes and goes. But the headaches, pain behind the eyes, and the rash have lingered. Everyone including myself felt that it would be best if I came back to the city. The best thing for my health right now is good sleep. I think my living conditions may have been slowing down the recovery. I tread lightly on that topic because my hosts and friends in the village have been nothing but wonderful. The amount of care, support and love they have shown me is indescribable. It's just that my body isn't used to sleeping on a wooden floor. And my body is accustomed to western toilets, running water and indoor plumbing.

I feel proud and lucky to say that I've travelled to the places I've been, seen the things that I've seen, and have been able to do the the things that I've done. But it's the people I remember most. It is the people that I come in contact with that I'm most affected by. They are the reason I continue to travel. I am so grateful I was able to spend the time I had with my friends in Prang Ku. They are such wonderful people. They are people who don't have much themselves but would give me anything. Living in rural Thailand was never easy. I was challenged in so many ways on a daily basis. But it was always worth it to me because of the people I was surrounded by. I miss them already.

Unfortunately, Dengue Fever has caused my stay abroad to be shorter than I had wanted and planned. I have a one-way ticket home to Utah Tuesday. Travelling the way I do requires my mind and body to be at full strength. They are not right now. I'm on my own and it wouldn't be wise to continue on the way that I have carrying a 35 lb backpack.

This is my second time to this part of the world. It's too bad I wasn't able to visit the rest of Southeast Asia. The cliche 'so close yet so far away' seems only fitting. I do believe things work out the way they are meant to. I was able to accomplish my ultimate goal: to live in another country amongst another culture while doing volunteer work. I did that. It's okay to be sad and disappointed. But I don't feel sorry for myself. I'm the luckiest girl in the world. Perhaps the greatest lesson I was to learn on this adventure was that Dorothy was in fact right. There is no place like home.

EARLY TO BED - EARLY TO RISE

My alarm clock Mr. Rooster wakes me up at 5:45 am every morning. Prior to standing up I evaluate and scratch the many new bites that are all over my body. I sleep under a mosquito net so that rules them out. Whatever they are - they are my nemesis. This truly is my only complaint about my stay in Thailand.

The rooster eventually stops cock a doodle doodling. But about 20 feet away from my house is a mega phone that is attached to the power lines and there is a broadcast that is heard throughout the village. It starts at 6 am every single morning. On Monk day it starts at 5 am.

The best part of waking up is NesCafe in my cup. This is something that I've begun to look forward to in the morning. I then enjoy a delicious breakfast of rice, eggs and sauteed morning glory. I take my cold water bucket bath. It feels nice on my bites, and it wakes me right up. I brush my teeth with bottled water out of my bedroom window. It's quite convenient. I enjoy watching the little chickens and baby chicks feed on last nights dinner scraps as I brush my teeth.

Deciding what to wear is the most difficult decision of my day. Not for fashionable purposes but because of the consequences that will come with what I choose to wear. If I wear shorts or a skirt I face the wrath of the insects outside that like to feast on foreigner blood. One would think that I could solve this problem by using the big bottle of deep woods Off that I brought with me. Not so. Insect repellent puts a coating on my skin that doesn't let it breathe and it makes me hotter than I was before doing this in the first place. It's suffocating. However, I am grateful to not be in Malaria country. I'd be in big trouble if I was. Second problem. If I wear pants then I face the wrath of the heat the same way the deep woods Off brings me. It is a daily conundrum. I like to mix it up.

I leave for school by 7:45 am. I teach 3 classes each day Monday - Friday. Some days are better than others. I really enjoy some classes and would teach them all day if I could, and then others are painful to get through and I feel like I'm babysitting. Thai teachers have the same problem. It's not just me. It's frustrating, but the good by far outweigh the bad.

At some point in the day I ask myself if sweating profusely was part of the job description? It is indescribably hot in Thailand! This heat is magnified by the fact that it rains on a bi daily basis and makes it incredibly muggy. I keep thinking that there is a day when I will get used to the heat and it won't be so uncomfortable. I'm still waiting for that day. I feel like I'm the sweaty girl, and I've never been the sweaty girl.

I walk home from school or ride the bike that the school has borrowed to me while I'm here. As hard working as Thai people are - they don't walk anywhere. They don't understand why I want to. People stop to offer me rides home and I usually decline. Most days I stop to get a soda or ice cream bar on my way home. It's refreshing when it's so hot. All soda is bottled here, but that's not a problem because the nice lady just pours it into a plastic bag to take with me.

If the Internet cafe is open I'll stop and check email and maybe write in the blog. If not I'll continue on home. Once home I sit on the porch for a while. I like watching the construction of the home that is going up across the street. They have a different way of doing things and I enjoy watching. I get 2 regular visitors each day. They are 2 little girls who live on each side of me. It makes me happy when they come to see me.

It gets dark at about 6:30. The mother that I live with makes dinner every night. There is not much refrigeration out here so everything is bought fresh from the market for each meal. Thai food is famously spicy so it's toned it down quite a bit for me. Chili peppers go into just about everything. Some women have been teaching me how to cook Thai food. I'm enjoying this and looking forward to cooking when I get home.

After dinner I'll write in a spiral bound notebook I keep with me or I'll read. Some days I'll go pray and meditate at the temple with the family or friends. I like to watch Thai soap operas at night with the family. I don't a have clue what is going but I try to figure it out or just make up the story. At about 9 pm I'll take my nightly bucket bath. Thai people bathe every morning and night. It is important that I do the same. I find it difficult to stay up any later than 9:30 so I'm ready for bed. Before I turn out the lights I re-evaluate the many new bites that I've acquired over my body throughout the day, and apply my Tiger Balm.

NO THAI LEFT BEHIND

When parent teacher conference came around every semester, my parents would receive the same complaint (if any, cause I'm an angel) from all of my teachers. Lisa talks in class. That may not come as a surprise to people. I enjoy the art of conversation. A lot. I always have. If I could go back and apologize to every single one of those teachers, I would. I know how frustrating it is trying to talk over someone when teaching. It is not only rude to the teacher but it's unfair to the other students. I sound like a real teacher and I'm only a pseudo one.

My job is to teach English. I teach 3 classes everyday Monday through Friday. My students have a good knowledge of the basics of the English language. Some are much better than others. I've started to notice a pattern in the classes I've taught. They are either great and productive or extremely difficult. They are difficult because I feel like I'm babysitting and not teaching. It's completely frustrating. It's not just me. It's the same for Thai teachers too. I picked up on some things the other English teachers would say when they would ask me which class I had. They seemed to know right off if they were going to be good or difficult. I didn't understand how an entire class could be defined like that.

This will probably be difficult to follow, but this is how the high school works. The classes are categorized as M 1 - M 6. 1 being the youngest and 6 being the oldest. Students are then sub-categorized as M 1/1, 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, 1/5, 1/6 etc. Each class the same. Students are placed into a class dependent on their ability by testing them. 1 being the smartest and 6 being the students who struggle. I hate to phrase it that way, but that is how it has been described to me. Other teachers have been so frank to call them "stupid". That may just be for lack of a better word. English is their second language. For example, 4/1, 4/2, and 4/3 would be considered the "smart" ones. And 4/4, 4/5, and 4/6 would be considered the least intelligent students. It's in a descending order too. I'm not sure if it is coincidence but the classes that I find enjoyable and productive are the 1's, 2's, and 3's. The ones with the behavioral issues are the 4's, 5's and 6's.

I'm not here to change the Thai educational system. It is irrelevant whether I feel it is fair or not the way things are done. I'm here to be an English teacher. I'm not so naive to believe that my students are going to be remotely fluent in English by the time I leave. I'm not preparing them for the exams they need to take in a few weeks. I'm more like a substitute teacher. I have different classes everyday. There are over 50 English classes at the high school. My job is to make learning English fun. I am here to help them feel comfortable talking to a foreigner. If they leave class with a smile on their face - I leave with a smile on my face too and I feel as though I've accomplished what I came here to do.

SUPER STAR

On one of the assignments that I gave my students I wanted them to tell me a little bit about themselves. One of the questions is: I want to be a ______ when I grow up. On a couple occasions I have received the answer "super star!". I love this answer, and it makes me smile.

I wouldn't normally write about a stereotype. But sometimes there is a reason that an idea becomes a stereotype in the first place. I realize that last sentence is not politically correct. But in this case I feel it's harmless.

Thai people love to sing! It is no secret that Asians love karaoke. They really do! I've seen this firsthand. I've mentioned before that at the end of class students ask me questions about my self. One time it was requested that I sing 'I will always love you'. The one by Whitney Houston. I gave them a little glimpse of the chorus and then I started to laugh and told them I didn't know the rest of the song.

The girl I live with sings to the same mixed CD of music in English every morning as we get ready for school. It's an array of Britney Spears, Robbie Williams, Backstreet Boys, an Allison Krauss knock off, and her personal favorite (cause she tells me often) The Scorpions 'Winds of Change.' I whistle along. The kids at school sing all the time too. They sing at times that I wouldn't feel were socially appropriate to be singing. It's a bit awkward at times. Last Thursday a big sound system was brought to lunch by faculty. A big crowd gathered around as different students took their turn singing their favorite tune. I'm not making this up, and I got it on video. I'm excited to share it.

It just so happens that as I type the girl next to me is singing in my ear. She actually inspired me to write on this particular subject. Particularly because when this said singing is going on, it's quite often off key. She is singing loud and proud! I had an epiphany the other day though. Thai is a difficult language to learn. One word can be said 10 different ways. The tone is completely foreign to me. So this led me to believe maybe they are right on key and it's my ear that is deaf to their tone? I don't know the answer, but in the meantime I'm going to continue listening as my friends carry on in their quest to become super stars.

MADE IN THAILAND

And on the seventh day God said "Let there be Tiger Balm!". And I thank him for that. This little jar of happiness has helped me retain my sanity. Apparently I am a feast for all the biting insects and arachnids that reside in the area. I have so many bites in so many places all over my body. Itching and scratching has become a part of my daily routine. The mother I live with introduced me to applying Tiger Balm to the bites. One night she was watching me scratch away. She slid the little jar towards me and motioned to rub it on. God bless her! Tiger Balm is an ointment that is made here in Thailand. It is typically used for achy joints and muscles but I now know that it is used for the relief of insect bites too. Hooray!

By the way, was anyone aware that Tiger Balm treats flatulence? I wouldn't know from personal experience. But I read about it on the usage paper. Who would have thought? The idea makes me laugh.