FIRST IMPRESSIONS

I am so excited to write about my arrival to Si Saket province. It was 10:30 am and I had been on a bus for 6 hours. I must say that I rode in style. This was a first class version of buses. Surprisingly comfortable. I had a recliner chair, blanket, and treats. Accompanied by horrible straight to video American movies translated into Thai. At least it wasn't karaoke. There was someone to attend to my high maintenance needs too. Just kidding.

Once again, I didn't know who would be picking me up. Same as before, I stepped off the bus and this girl greets me and says "Are you Lisa?" Yes I am. She is a teacher at the school where I will be working. I'm also living with her family. Her name is Pi Ju. One of the bus driver's from the school drove us out to Prang Ku. My new village. It's about 60 kilometers from Si Saket. I don't exactly know how far that is. Have I mentioned that I feel we are disadvantaged as Americans to not work on the Metric system?

We went to a restaurant where the director from school and a few of the administrators were meeting us for lunch. I was asked again by my new friends if I was vegetarian. They ordered from there. They feasted on crickets, and a few other dishes. The crickets are what stood out. I enjoyed my egg and onion omelet with rice. We eat rice with every meal. Dessert was watermelon. They then took me to Prang Ku's version of Starbucks. A local little coffee shop. I usually don't care for coffee much, but this was delicious! I've had all sorts of delicious coffee since leaving on this journey. I drank delicious coffee everyday in Nepal cause it was so good.

Anyways, back to my story. Prang Ku is a small village, and is very rural. It is very poor here. Most of the families here are rice farmers. Prior to leaving the US I was told that I would be living with a wealthier Thai family who could afford the means of supporting a foreign visitor.

We got to my new home for the next two months and I was greeted with a friendly smile. Pi Ju's mother. There are 2 boys and 1 girl in the family. The father is a teacher and rice farmer too. He sleeps at the rice farm every night, and Mae goes there with him. Mae doesn't speak any English but she told Pi Ju that we can communicate through body language.

She showed me around the house. There is not really any furniture, and the kitchen is a wide open room that feels as though it's outside. There is not much in it. Our dining table is outside along with our washing machine and clothes line to dry our clothes. She took me up to my new bedroom. My new bed is on a wooden floor with a straw mat as a mattress. I get a little extra padding with a thin floral comforter. The wood in the walls serves as a shelf for some of my things. I have vaulted ceilings that are covered by a tin roof, and two open windows that lock when it rains. They have set up a mosquito net for me to sleep under too. It feels like a tent in my own bedroom.

The six of us share one bathroom. We have an Asian style toilet. We poor buckets of water in it to make it flush. We don't have a shower. We take a bath. This bath is done by pouring buckets of water. It's called a bucket bath. There is always stagnant water in the bathroom. We always wear sandals when in the bathroom. Up until yesterday I was regretting cutting 10 inches off of my hair prior to leaving the country. Yesterday I was reminded of why I did that in the first place, and I am so grateful that I did. I don't know how this bath would have worked out with my long mane.

I went for a walk in my new village. I realized shortly after leaving my house that I do actually live with a wealthier Thai family. We live very comfortably compared to my neighbors. They are very poor. I was greeted with friendly smiles as I walked through this small town. I'm excited to discover my new surroundings.

My new home life is very different from anything that I have ever known or experienced in my life. I asked myself, is this what I signed up for? I then answered myself, yes. This is exactly what I signed up for, and exactly what I wanted. I wanted to experience an environment and culture completely different from my own. This is what I'm getting. It's uncomfortable and different but that doesn't mean that it's bad. It's just different. This is all my new friends have ever known. I'm ready, and I'm up for this challenge.

ONE NIGHT IN BANGKOK MAKES A HARD MAN HUMBLE

*Volunthai is the organization that I volunteer for. It is a very small local organization that has a small network of schools in the North Eastern provinces of Thailand that they wish to help. It was started by an American who travelled to Southeast Asia upon graduation from College. He stumbled onto this part of Thailand, and fell in love with the area. He has lived here ever since. He started Volunthai to help other travellers have a similar experience by teaching English. It's a home stay program. I live with a Thai family and they feed me 3 meals a day. My part of the agreement is that I teach at the school M-F. Michael (the founder) and his wife Ae now live in Washington DC. He is working on a masters degree at Johns Hopkins University. His wife, Ae's family looks after the program while they are in the United States.


I ended up having to stay in Bangkok longer than I had anticipated. I left Bangkok on Monday. My instructions were to go to the Mo Chit bus station in Bangkok. From there I was to take the bus to Chaiyaphum in the Isaan province. Someone was to meet me at the bus station in Chaiyaphum. I didn't know their name, gender, birthmark, or anything about them. I was just told someone would pick me up. There was me, and one other man who was Caucasian on the bus. He was from England and is visiting his wife's family in the area. Fortunately for me, he knew the area well. There are very few "farang" (foreigners) who travel to this part of Thailand so very little writing is in English. Luckily he was sitting in front of me, and informed me of when I should get off. This man seemed concerned with what my plans were. Mainly the fact that they were so vague. I suppose I was a little nervous myself.

I came down the steps of the bus and the bus attendant was smiling and pointing to a couple. As soon as the couple saw my face they said smiling, "Are you Lisa?" I was immediately relieved and felt a sense of security. They introduced themselves as the Mae and Pa Pientong. Ae's Mother and Father. It is disrespectful to call elders by their first name in Thailand. I don't actually know their first names.

They helped me with my bags, and as we were driving away Mae asked me if I was vegetarian. I told her yes, and she asked if I would like to join her to the market. I wish I had my camera with me. This was such a cool experience. We walked through the market and she introduced me to traditional Thai fruits and vegetables. We picked a little of everything so that I could have a taste. I tried things that by the appearance of them I would never dare taste. One fruit looks like a Sea Urchin. After the market Pa drove us down the street to a little restaurant. The only thing that was in English read "100% Vegetarian." This is where we got the main courses for our dinner later. They refused to let me pay for anything.

I stayed at their home for the night. They live in a very nice Thai home that is behind a gate. The guest bedroom I slept in was the only room with AC in the house. Mae is a teacher, and Pa is a retired Veterinarian. Something I found interesting was that he is a retired Veterinarian, but he has 5 chicken's he raises for Cock Fighting. Anyway, they have 3 daughter's and 1 surprise son. Ae-32, Oh-30, Oom-27, and Parin-10. He's your typical hyper active 10 year old boy.

Oom took me to buy my bus ticket to Si Saket for the morning. She then took me over to the local town center where there is an outside market. Once again, why didn't I have my camera? I think the coolest thing that I have seen since being in Thailand was 200 or so Thai men and women doing aerobics outside to Thai techno music. It was awesome! I'm not sure why I found this so amusing. Oom introduced me to her friends. We hung out for a bit and talked about school, boys, work, and our families. Just as I would with my own girlfriends. I couldn't have felt more at home.

We got home and I was fed the most awesome Thai meal. During dinner the family gave me a quick but efficient Thai culture and language lesson. I went to bed shortly after because my bus was leaving Chaiyaphum at 4:00 am the next morning.

They took me to the bus station and waited with me in the pouring rain until the bus arrived. I'm so grateful for the hospitality Ae's family showed me. I only spent 1 evening with them, and they were so kind to me. I was sad to say goodbye. I hate to think that this was the last time that I would ever spend an evening with them.

A few pictures from Nepal

NEPALI BANDA

Yesterday a "Banda" was declared in Kathmandu. From what I understand, a Banda is a form of civil protest in Nepal. It's usually non violent and mainly affects the roads. It's hugely inconvenient! All the roads are shut down and you're not able to pass through by vehicle. The Dalit movement was behind the Banda.

My new friend Ted and I were walking up and down the street trying to figure out: 1. where we could eat breakfast (everything was closed) ,and 2. how am I going to get to the airport? No taxi's are able to run during Banda's. They can last for several hours to several days. You never know. We figured we'd hike to the hotel up the street because they have guests that will need to get to the airport. Luckily, they were able to help us, and had called someone to take me.

It was fun because I got a special escort to the airport from the Nepali tourist police. They didn't charge me any rupees either. It's funny how things work out because all that time that we spent on the micro bus out in the country where the Banda's usually occur, we didn't have a single problem. But when I get back to Kathmandu, the day that I need to get to the airport...there is a Banda. What are the chances?

I'm not sure why my luck has been down a bit since leaving on this journey i.e. LAX, conjunctivitis, and the Banda. It's only been 10 days, and these 10 days have been pretty eventful. I'm hoping things are going to turn around for me in Thailand.

THE HEX

Most don't know this, but every time I leave town I get sick. This started about a year and a half ago when I travelled to Southeast Asia. It's usually just an uncomfortable cold. Food poisoning in Italy was fun. Sally and I thought that we were dying in the Hilton Rome airport hotel. It's always something. I started to become conscious of this and worried that my worries were the cause of the problems. I thought that because I was conscious of this perhaps I was creating the illness. I began to think that I should see an acupuncturist or a hypnotist to "heal" me of this.

Last Thursday night I was explaining to Devin this strange phenomenon. I was telling him how happy that I was that this is the first time that I have left town and haven't come down with something. Why didn't I knock on wood?

Two O' clock in the morning rolls around and I'm awaken by the incredible amount of Pus and tears that is excreting from my eye. It had started to swell shut too. I woke Devin up and told him the problem. He checked it out, and we decided we would go to a doctor in the morning.

By morning, it was completely swollen shut. First thing we went to the local Chitwan medical clinic, and I was diagnosed with Acute Conjunctivitis aka Pink Eye. We weren't attacked by Maoist rebels while in rural Nepal, but my eye sure was attacked with a disgusting infection that likes to pus and weep.

It's exciting because the infection in my left eye spread to my right eye by morning. Yes, it's that contagious. Acute Conjunctivitis is an epidemic in Nepal this time of the year. It's caused by either dirty water or pollution. This leads me to my next point. If you come within 2 feet of me, I'll probably give it to you. Poor Devin is proof of this for being the good man he is in helping me with my eye drops and eye goo medication. He now too has it. What's more? Prakash is coming down with it too. I feel so bad and can't help but feel responsible. We tried to be careful with washing hands and such but it's difficult when travelling particularly in these parts.

Did I mention that we were in Chitwan when this all happened? Chitwan is known for it's big game wildlife. I was still able to watch Elephants bathe, ride a motorcycle with Devin through the countryside, ride an elephant, and see some rhinos....with one eye.

As unfortunate as this infection is, I was still able to see more with one eye than most will with two in a lifetime and I couldn't consider myself more blessed.

DALIT

Devin has been given the opportunity to possibly do an update for NPR on the Dalit situation here in Nepal. Dalit's also known as the "untouchables" are the lowest in the caste system. They are disadvantaged and persecuted only because of their caste. There are no physical differences or anything really that sets them apart from other Nepali's. Devin has been here in Nepal working for a local NGO this summer doing journalistic work to create awareness on the issue. This NPR opportunity was a side project he took on himself.


Most of my time in Nepal, we travelled to the rural Terrai to visit Dalit's themselves. Our group was Me, Devin, Ted (another peace fellow), and Prakash (a Dalit, and friend himself). Devin was interviewing and getting audio so that he could add their stories to the broadcast. The Dalit's that we met with were so grateful to Devin for taking an interest in them.


The Dalit caste that I had a chance to sit and talk with were those from the "Body Caste". That means that these woman are resorted to prostitution. That is their lot in life and the "job" that they are allowed to do. They are used for their bodies and not able to get work or training to do another job.


The circumstances that took me to these parts of Nepal make me sad, but I feel very lucky that I had the opportunity to see this part of the country and meet people that I would never otherwise meet. Most westerners don't travel to these parts of Nepal. The families that we visited have such horrible circumstances that I will never fully understand, but they were so kind and welcoming to all of us. They brought us fresh milk coffee, and one woman actually fanned me to keep the flies off of me. My heart was touched by the generosity of these Nepali's. They were just happy to know that someone has taken an interest on their unfortunate situation and wants to report it so that others may know and hopefully help.

I felt very lucky to be involved in this story. I didn't really do anything but sit and listen, but I was happy to be there and am grateful that I could be. I will remember the experience forever.

TRAVELLING THE TERRAI

My time in Nepal is almost through. I fly to Bangkok, Thailand tomorrow. I've had such an amazing time here, and I met some really wonderful people. It's difficult for me to sum up the past nine days into one journal entry.

There are ten world heritage sites in Nepal. Seven of them lie within the Kathmandu valley, and I was fortunate enough to see a few. They are all equally beautiful and interesting in their own right. I visited Pashupatinath Temple, Durbar Square, and Swayambunath Stupa. It's interesting because Nepal is predominantly Hindu, but both Buddhist and Hindu temples and religious sites lie throughout this country.

There are three words that could describe Kathmandu a little bit. Horns, garbage, and pollution. If I had to guess, Nepali driver's Ed taught that it was a necessity to use your horn at all times. They've even managed to step outside the box and make up different horn tones. Kind of like ring tones, but for horns. I think that it's safe to say when in doubt...use your horn.

I've never seen so much garbage in the streets. In America, it's stamped into our brains to not litter. We could also possibly be fined if we do so. It's difficult because as a visitor I would like to do my part to not add to the garbage on the streets. But this proves to be a problem when it seems almost impossible to to find a garbage can. I've taken this concept for granted in the US.

Devin had warned me about the pollution. I said "Devin, it can't be that bad. It can't be worse than Washington DC or other major American cities. It's just Kathmandu, Nepal." I was sorely mistaken. The pollution is so bad that mid way through my day, I blow my nose and it appears that I've been camping in the mountains for the past 9 days. I liken it to Salt Lake City, and the inversions that we get in the winter. But far worse.

Nepal is beautiful! My descent on the airplane was such a pleasure. My neighbor sitting next to me was laughing at me because of all the oohing and ahhing that I was doing. There is so much diversity in it's beauty. You have some of the highest peaks in the world known for it's trekking, but you also have the flat lands of the Terrai. I spent most of my time here travelling the beautiful Terrai. This is where I truly came to love this country. I was happy to escape the craziness of Kathmandu.

We travelled from town to town via micro bus. This is an exciting experience in itself. In the United States we know the micro bus as a mini van. A mini van holds 6-8 people max right? Not in Nepal. Here they like to squeeze as much space out of that little van as possible. I'm talking 18-20 people. It's exhilarating being on a micro bus for 5-6 hours. Oh the sites, smells, and sounds. The fun of the micro bus is escalated by the fact that the driver likes to play Nepali pop music so loud above 20 other people. In reality, the micro bus is the best way to travel in Nepal. It's time consuming and exhausting but it's the safest and cheapest way to get around besides flying.

This is the South Asian monsoon season. You may know that this part of the world is experiencing record breaking rainfall. Many parts of India, Bangladesh, and Nepal are flooding and displacing many people from their homes. The death toll is rising as well. This is affecting the Nepali Terrai where I spent most of my time. I'm hoping that the rains will let up, and that these people in this part of the world will get the aid that they need. I read in this mornings paper that aid is coming in.

The people that I've come in contact with here in Nepal have been so kind. I feel very lucky that I was able to come here and have this experience with a dear friend of mine. It may not be the easiest travelling that I've ever done, but absolutely worth it and I enjoyed every minute of it. I hope that I'm able to make it back here again one day and spend some time in the mountains that this country is famed for.

8/11 LAX

I was fortunate enough to be able to get caught up in one of the worst computer glitches in LAX history. It must have been my lucky day. The customs and immigrations system failed and thousands were stranded trying to get into the United States.


People were being kept on the runway for several hours because they couldn't be processed into the country. Because of that, no one was able to take off. Flights were delayed for hours. The airlines were giving out food vouchers so that people could at least eat. The problem with that is when there are thousands who are stranded, obviously those restaurants are going to run out of food. Some nice lady gave me her french fries that she hadn't touched. She came back with a full bottle of water for me too. It was so nice of her. I normally wouldn't accept food from a stranger, but I was so hungry!


My flight was supposed to take off at 11 pm, but we didn't actually depart until 4 am. This experience was beyond frustrating. I like to think that I'm a patient person, but I hate to say that I was one of those frustrated angry travellers. No one was giving us any information, and at one point I was told that it could be another 12 hours until we could possibly get out. Also, I've never seen flight crews waiting. They were caught up in the mess along with the rest of us.


Miraculously I made my flight to Kathmandu. The good news is that I didn't have to deal with a 5 hour layover in Bangkok. I made it onto the airplane 10 minutes before we departed. The moral of this story is to make Lisa extremely tired and frustrated to get her to fly. I didn't have it in me to get anxious and scared for the flights ahead.